Islamic fashion’ goes way beyond the burqa

To many Americans, the phrase “Islamic fashion” probably sounds like an oxymoron. After all, Western discussions of Islamic attire tend to focus on a few hot-button issues— notably whether the Muslim tradition of covering women’s heads and faces is a sign of sexual oppression or religious devotion — while ignoring the broader subject of Islamic clothing and textiles.

As a result, the fashion “don’ts” of Islamic dress get a lot more attention that the fashion “dos.”

Fortunately, “Sartorial Sanctuary: Clothing Tradition In the Islamic World,” a small but eye-opening exhibit at the RISD Museum, presents a more balanced view. While acknowledging that fashion taboos are a part of Islamic tradition — the Koran, for example, advises Muslims to dress modestly and to avoid expensive clothing and fabrics — the show demonstrates that such strictures haven’t brought an end to sartorial expression. Indeed, some of the pieces in the exhibit are among the sumptuous garments you’re ever likely to see.

Handsomely selected and installed by textile curator Kate Irvin, the show also highlights the wide range of regional Islamic styles and traditions.

A display case filled with men’s head coverings, for example, features both a Middle Eastern kaffiyeh, kerchief-like cloth originally worn by Bedouin nomads and popularized by the late Palestinian leader Yasser Arafat, and an ikat kepala, a traditional Javanese head covering decorated with stylized Islamic script.

The two pieces — one from the Middle East, the other from Southern Asia — also illuminate another side of Islamic clothing. Though ostentatious displays of wealth and status are generally frowned on, Muslims often find more subtle ways to express their social standing.

The museum’s kaffiyeh, for instance, features a simple red-and-white pattern printed on plain cotton fabric. But the braided headband or “head rope” used to hold the kaffiyehin place is wrapped with gold thread, a sign that it once belonged to a man of some status.

Continue:

http://www.projo.com/art/content/wk-artcolumn08_01-08-09_22CRO42_v8.23d0956.html